The Stage

Restaurant hopping in NYC

Two weeks ago, I returned home from a half month’s stay, gallivanting around one of the world’s most fabulous cities, and where I plan to move in January.

New York City: Nothing quite like it.

I set out on my trip with the main goal being to stage in as many restaurants possible, in order to get a sense of what exactly I am “getting myself into”. Turns out, a kitchen is a kitchen. Each place has its own quirks and rules, but at the end of the day this fact remains: a restaurant is a place where badass people do badass things, doesn’t matter where you are.

As a reflection and meditation, I have decided to detail what stood out to me about each place I went, and some overall conclusions about my experience.

*Everyone in New York calls stages “trails” now. I guess “stage” is antiquated terminology, but I couldn’t quite get used to it.*

- Rafs -

I learned about Rafs from a Bon Appétit video I watched on my Aunt’s front porch whose house we had just moved out of in May. Her new house did not have WiFi yet, and therefore in an effort to stream without fatiguing my personal hotspot I found myself in a camp chair breathing in the warm Charleston air, dreaming of my future in New York City.

From the video I gleaned that Chef Camari Mick worked as the Executive Pastry Chef at a place called Musket Room on Elizabeth Street in the East Village. The restaurant was female-owned and chefed, with a Michelin Star. The same group also runs its sister restaurant, Rafs, across the street. Immediately, I put them on my list.

This was my first stage in the city, so naturally I was nervous. I briskly walked from Bank St. to Elizabeth, arriving 20 minutes early. Like a first date, I circled the block checking my reflection in my phone’s front camera to make sure I looked alright. They told me to show up in black pants with a black hat so that is what I did. I bought pants from Carhartt and a hat from a street vendor outside of Carhartt - total damage, $70. P.S. don’t tell my mom about the hat.

I searched for a back entrance, just to make sure I wasn’t the idiot to dramatically pull on a locked front door. When I didn’t see anything promising I walked in, looked toward FOH standing by the host stand, and said, “I’m here for a stage”. There was chitter chatter, a staff member walked to the open kitchen to deliver this news to Daniel the CDC, he introduced himself, and off we went downstairs.

This is the first time I had been in a downstairs kitchen. Starting off my career in “the city that always floods”, it makes sense that this common feature in “the city that never sleeps” would be foreign to me. He handed me a shirt and an apron, I changed, and then went to my next task - helping Alex set up garmo.

*Lemons: Lemons, are something every cook must encounter throughout their culinary life, however, I was not prepared for the many new lemon techniques I learned on this trip.*

To start, Alex had me cut lemons in half and put these mesh covers on them, which I had never seen before. My hands started to cramp like crazy trying to quickly pop these covers on without looking like a fool. Failing to do so, in my haste I accdiently threw a lemon on the floor, to which he kindly said, relax. After that I surprisingly relaxed.

I picked some herbs and cut a couple onions. Then Daniel called me over to flip something on sauté, but I can’t remember what it was. Next, I cut large loaves of house-made bread, and to my amazement transferred slices without dropping, combining a long bladed bread knife with a 180 degree full-body turn, by instruction of the sous. Service began, and we were off to the races. I sliced crudo, made salads, drop arancini, and ate lots and lots of food.

At the end of first turn, I was called back downstairs and asked how the stage went? I replied that it was super exciting and they told me they’d be happy to have me once I was settled. I thanked them and off I went down Bleecker. I smiled big, stuffed and proud. I had made it through my first stage.

- Penny -

Five days later (somehow - not quite sure what I did between these days besides go to church, run some errands for my uncles, see the opera (for $25 bucks!), go to MOMA and spend a day with Maggie and Bri ) was my stage at Penny.

I walked in and instantly felt at home. Harper was behind the counter prepping so I put on an apron, threw my stuff in the broom/coat closet and started working. My prep tasks were to shred beets, beard mussels (I’d never done this before), rinse clams, clean squid, stuff squid, cut lemons, bake something I can’t quite remember, and I think process leaks although it all somewhat streams together.

*Here the lemons were quartered and eighthed - not as tedious as puting the mesh skirt on them, but still different than Chubby.*

For service, I worked first turn with Charlie over on oyster, plating mussels, stocking ramekins of mignonette, and shucking clams for the first time. Speaking of tedious, this process was wild. A clam, unlike an oyster, is opened from its lips, opposed to its hinge, kinda like a bay scallop. Although unlike a bay scallop - in which I’ve become a self described pro - these clams certainly gave me a run for my money. Towards the end I did sort of get a hang of it though.

*A word on oysters: these babies saved my life. While I am a novice when it comes to practically every aspect of a commercial kitchen, one thing I am confident on is how to shuck a damn oyster. Three out of the six restaurants I trailed at had oysters, and you can bet I was on them.*

I love Penny. Before service there was line-up where everyone huddled around the bar, went through the menu, tried some wine, discussed how to talk to guests - keeping it fresh… It definitely felt like a family.

- Lilia -

I learned about Lilia through my friend and previous co-worker, Devon, who interned there for a spell during culinary school. He graciously gave me the contact of Chef Robbins who connected me to her CDC, Payson. This was my first restaurant in Brooklyn.

When I arrived a very smiley maître d’ (I’m assuming) let me in and introduced me to the kitchen. From there I was lead upstairs to grab a long sleeved “porter shirt”, I guess they are called, and an apron. When I made it back down to the spacious kitchen Bri, the sous, pointed me towards a shallot.

The kitchen at Lilia is one of the coziest kitchens I’ve ever stepped foot it. It feels like what I imagine an old school French kitchen would look like, with a wood-fired oven, dark floors, high counter tops, the works. The staff was equally welcomining, with at least half of them appearing to be in their mid twenties. They didn’t have a lot of prep task for me to do, so I picked herbs and listened to the antics.

*Picking herbs: It’s literally the same wherever you go - tedious… I love that word.*

I made the mistake of eating family meal, a faux pas I did not repeat twice, and although I tried to go light on the delicious chicken salad and leftover homemade bread, I was for sure in pain when dishes started flying at me to try during service. I started over on garmo and then slowly worked my way down to sauté, pasta (separate from sauté), and grill/giant oven.

I finished my night in the very chill, oh so cool, pastry/pasta prep kitchen, speaking with a girl who’s name I can’t remember, which is terrible especially because she was a complete badass and gave me a whole list of neighborhoods in Queens (where she lives) that she recommended I try out. I loved this space, and it was super relaxing to watch her mise out ingredients for ice-cream under the warm light, knowing that the busy line lay 20ft. away.

Lilia was by far the coziest place I staged and cool since Devon worked there :)

- Musket Room -

A lovely lovely restaurant.

When I arrived Max, the CDC, was helping transport sheet pans up from the downstairs stairwell to the street, he paused to say hello and guided me down stairs where I was introduced to his sous, Emma. In a theme that I had caught on to by now she showed me where I could get an apron and shirt, mentioning, “they’re all basically one size”. After I changed, I made my way back to the kitchen and got prepping.

*Shirts: I really don’t believe small, medium, and large have any relevance when it comes to kitchen shirts - they’re all baggy, unfashionable, and scratchy, yet somehow endearing*.

I realize I just said the kitchen at Lilia was the coziest, but Musket was a close second. It was the only kitchen I staged in that was completely separate from the main dining room, after all it was unground, but every station was around one big table with expo in the middle. The orientation felt very old school, like I was an Italian grandma prepping at my kitchen island or something.

I helped Chris, on garmo with prep. Every task he gave me was incredibly satisfying. At first he had me clean swish chard and then brunois the stem, next there were chives (my literal favorite kitchen task to do, thanks to Rod who gave me hours to become semi-proficient at the task), then picked amaranth cress, an ingredient I had never interacted with before.

Then it was time for family. Realizing my previous night’s mistake, I refrained from grabbing a plate, but made my way upstairs to the dining room to talk to the other cooks. They were all incredibly sweet and kind, and asked about my plans. Most of them lived in Manhattan on the Upper West side which I thought was interesting. I didn’t mention this earlier, but all but two of the cooks working that day were women. Fucking badass. After family I helped Chris plate up some beet salads, and we were off to service.

Overall the rhythm was great. I worked with Chris first turn and most of second, by third I made my way over to what I believe was referred to as garmo two. As I made my way around the stations I was served each course of the omnivore tasting menu (they also have vegetarian), which was an incredibly special experience.

My favorite dish, and honestly up there in the list of best things I’ve ever ate, was a torched scallop garnished with finger limes, plated on a velvety puddle of curry. It was absolutely fantastic, and elicited a strong pull to my childhood (as does much food I love).

*For context: when I was little, I tried scallops for the first time, and when my dad found out I loved them, he would always point them out when they were on the menu. As I’ve grown up, I do not angle towards the scallop as much as I used to, yet they remain my favorite “fruit de la mer”.*

My last stop in the kitchen was pastry. Chef Madison was from Atlanta, Georgia and looked like Scarlet Johansen. I learned that she went to culinary school for pastry and that although pastry chefs are hard to come by, they’re always first to go. In other words, it’s unique to have an in-house pastry program.

I can’t remember much about the dessert except that it was delicious; however, I do remember the first dessert course which was a very cold ball of coconut water sorbet served with some type of soda water (I think there was yuzu involved). My descriptions, are shameful I know, but this was so lovely and refreshing.

The dishes at Musket Room were incredibly beautiful, almost matching the beauty of the women that made them.

- Cervos -

I decided to arrive to this stage an hour and fifteen earlier than it actually was. Daylight saving time had just ended and someone forgot to set their Casio watch back - I guess that means I was spending less time on my phone though so that’s good. Luckily I realized my mistake before charging in the door, and conveniently I was about a 15 minutes walk from the Ludlow hotel, so I decided to stop in for a Bellini and journal session.

Walking out of the hotel, reflective and relaxed, I made my way back to Cervos and walked in. I was greeted by a woman who had worked with Yoyo in San Francisco “all those years ago”. She welcomed me and went to tell Tyler, the CDC, that I had arrived.

Tyler showed me downstairs (another common theme) to the prep area, gave me a shirt/apron, and then walked me through the menu. Then it was time for line-up. Ross, Ergin (I don’t know how to correctly spell his name), Paula, and a sweet boy whose name I can’t remember, but I think it was Henry?, shuffled in and everyone said hello. We were assigned our tasks for the day and then got going.

I made a fool out of my self cutting onions, not really, but there was a specific way he wanted me to do them and I felt like I made a bigger mess than I should have. I then formed lamb burgers in between two deli lids which was cool. Then I went upstairs and cut more onions, and helped garmo set up their station which involved cutting a hard goat’s cheese called majorero

Then it was time for family, I sat down at the window seat next to “Henry”. That’s when everyone started talking. They were all super sweet. Ross and “Henry” went out to get coffee (a pre-service trend I seldom take part in given my weak caffeine tolerance), and I got to talking to Ergin. I learned he was from the northern part of India, but lived in the south, and that he moved to the US not too long ago.

I actually had a lovely time speaking with them, at line up it didn’t seem like they wanted to talk but I think they were in focus mode/on the shyer side. Service started and I helped on garmo shucking oysters and purple clams! (well, might I add), and assembling this fabulous pea shoot salad. The plating at Cervos was unlike anything I’ve ever seen before, it was bold but simple and slightly freeform, but in an elegant way.

The line was pretty much the same size as Chubby Fish’s, but their fryer was massive! First turn I was on garmo, per usual, but then I slid down to hot side, and they let me cook! I had a really amazing time getting the chance to throw things on the grill and help plate on sauté. Ergin gave me helpful tips on my form, although by the end of service I think he was a little done with me, but oh well. It was good practice and I was thankful that he let me share his space.

Five stages down. One more to go.

- Chez Ma Tante -

Ok this didn’t feel like a stage at all -- it more felt like I was hanging out at a friend’s house, in Greenpoint, who happened to have an amazing wine/gin collection, and an in-house charcuterie program. Oh wait - that’s why it’s called Chez, but seriously - I did close to nothing, and left with a whole meal + wine and a gin tasting on the house (I did throw down some cash though, but dang!).

It was so so so damn good!

I got there during family, so everyone had basically done all the prep, I just had to juice some apples which was fun in itself. It was a Monday night so service for the most part started out slow. I just enjoyed talking to Gabe, the CDC, who was originally from Louisiana. He grew up helping his family with their seafood company and worked in a couple restaurants in New Orleans (I believe) before making his way to New York. It was nice to talk to another Southerner. I shucked some oysters and then was put to work forming croquettes for the next day’s service.

Then it was time for my impromptu gin tasting where I joined front of house and their GM/beverage program coordinator (it appeared) to try seven different gins, I think it was, and learn about their origin. This was so lovely, even as someone who typically abstains from clear liquor (an honestly most liquor) for the most part. My grandparents of course are huge gin drinkers, and therefore I delighted in learning more about their spirt of choice.

Unlike vodka, gin must be grain based. It can be infused with a range of aromatics, but it must have juniper! It used to be more sugary “back in the day”, but as human taste has become more refined the sugar left. As we tasted I began to understand more of the nuance.

The house gin packed a punch, but was still incredibly favorable and went down smooth. Beefeaters - my grandfather’s gin of choice - was dry with a classic gin flavor, in my mind. Hendricks was MY favorite - it’s more floral and light. There was also this gin that was made with seaweed which was super fascinating - but definetly too heavy for me - it tasted like a dirty martini on it’s own. Fascinating.

I went back in the kitchen, resumed talking to Gabe and shucking oysters for a bit, and then he asked me if I was ready for dinner. I sat down at the bar, was handed a menu, and ordered. What came after was literally was so f***ing good. Excuse my French, I guess I do like their food after all.

To start, out came the chicken liver pate which was served in a ramekin toped with some sort of jam. On the side were cornichons, my favorite pickle, and it was served together with crusty bread. To die for! Then came the kohlrabi salad with apple and hazelnuts, in an attempt to cut through the fat. Then came the pig’s head terrine which proceeded to melt in my mouth.

This all, mind you, was in front of me on the bar. I’m sure I looked insane, but I didn’t care, I was drinking yummy wine and eating pig. When asked if I wanted any of the larger plates, I politely declined due to my fullness level, but when the duck with concord grapes arrived, I realized my decline was declined.

The duck, of course, was bomb! To top it all off I had a poached pear for dessert. This, by the way, is literally my dream dessert given its aesthetic old world vibe and basic ethereal nature.

I walked back to the subway fat and happy. The Manhattan skyline was off to my right and once more I dreamed of my future here, just a pig’s head closer.

Before embarking on my trip I was definitely nervous. I didn’t know what to expect, or if I would even stand a chance in these kitchens, but all turned out ok.

New York City: I’m excited to live here, I’m excited to work here.

More on that to come.

Peace and Love,

B.

World’s loveliest scallop at Musket Room. Lower East Side, New York, New York. November 1, 2025.